Stainless steel is not a coating; it is an alloy that protects itself with a passive oxide layer. Most of the damage in a commercial kitchen or washroom comes from breaking that layer — with the wrong chemistry, or by wiping across the grain instead of along it.
The two rules that matter
Clean stainless steel along the direction of the grain with a pH-neutral or mildly alkaline product, then polish it with a stainless-specific oil or polish to restore the finish. Avoid chloride-based products, steel wool and any cloth that has been used with bleach. Rinse and dry along the grain before polishing.
Prices are Freshway catalogue prices as at 16 September 2026 and are subject to change. Confirm the current price, and whether GST applies, before quoting.
Work with the grain, always
Stainless steel sheet is polished in one direction, and the fine lines you can see under a light are the grain. Wiping across it lifts micro-fibres of metal and leaves a cross-hatch that reads as scratching. Wiping along it cleans the surface and leaves the finish intact.
Where the grain is not obvious, test in a corner under direct light. On brushed-finish fridges, benches and splashbacks it is usually vertical or horizontal on the panel, not diagonal.
What to use, and in what order
| Product | Job | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Freshway Stainless Steel Polish 414 | Clean and protect in one pass, spray or wipe | A$78.00 |
| Agar Steel Shine | Water-based polish, 5 L trade size | A$87.01 |
| Agar Stainless Steel Oil | Oil finish for brushed and industrial stainless | A$90.00 |
| Stainless steel scourer, 70 g | Only for heavy bonded soil, used along the grain | A$3.50 |
The order is simple: remove soil first with a neutral or alkaline cleaner, rinse, dry, then polish. A polish applied over a soiled surface seals the dirt in and looks streaky within a day.
What not to use on stainless steel
- Bleach and chlorine-based sanitisers left to sit. Chlorides attack the passive layer and cause pitting, which is corrosion rather than staining and cannot be polished out.
- Steel wool. It leaves carbon steel particles behind, which rust and show as small brown specks.
- Acid descalers at full strength. Useful on hard-water film at label dilution, harmful if left to dwell on stainless for long periods.
- The same cloth you use for bleach. A contaminated cloth does the same damage as the product itself.
Vinegar, baking soda and the home remedies
Diluted vinegar removes water spots and light film, and for a domestic sink it is fine. The limitation is that vinegar is an acid: on commercial food-contact stainless, regular use dulls the finish and creates the very pattern the polish exists to prevent. Baking soda is a mild abrasive; used wet with a soft cloth it is tolerable, used dry it scratches.
Fingerprints, water spots and heat discolouration
These are three different problems and only two are fixable by cleaning:
- Fingerprints and smears are oil films. A stainless polish with a light carrier oil removes them and resists the next set.
- Water spots are mineral deposits. They need a diluted acid descaler, then a rinse and a polish; our Freshway Descaler 145 at A$48.00 is the one most sites use, diluted and rinsed promptly.
- Heat discolouration around a burner or a grill is an oxide layer in the metal itself. No cleaner removes it; it is a refinishing job.
The routine that keeps stainless looking new
Wipe daily with a neutral cleaner along the grain; polish twice a week on high-touch surfaces such as door plates, lift panels and tapware; and deal with scale monthly before it becomes visible. In food areas, the disinfectant step needs a contact time and a product that does not pit the metal, which is where a hospital-grade disinfectant at label dilution beats a strong bleach mix on both counts.
Chemical selection in a kitchen also carries workplace duties. SafeWork NSW sets out the requirements in chemicals and other substances, and Food Standards Australia New Zealand covers the sanitation expectations for food premises.
Questions we get asked most
- What is the best thing to clean stainless steel with?
- A pH-neutral or mildly alkaline cleaner applied along the grain, followed by a stainless-specific polish. For commercial surfaces, a water-based polish such as Agar Steel Shine avoids the oily film that solvent products leave behind.
- How to make stainless steel look like new again?
- Remove the soil, remove any water spotting with a diluted acid descaler, rinse, then polish with the grain. Deep scratches and heat discolouration are not removable by cleaning; those are refinishing jobs.
- Can vinegar clean stainless steel?
- It removes light water spots, and it is an acid. Used occasionally and rinsed, it is acceptable; used routinely on commercial food-contact stainless it dulls the finish. A dedicated descaler at label dilution is more predictable.
- What shouldn’t you use to clean stainless steel?
- Chlorine bleach left to dwell, steel wool, undiluted acid descalers, and any abrasive powder used dry. All four either pit the surface or leave particles that rust.
- Why does my stainless steel look streaky after cleaning?
- Usually because it was wiped across the grain, or because polish was applied over a soiled surface. Clean and dry first, then apply a thin film of polish along the grain and buff with a dry cloth.
References
- SafeWork NSW — chemicals and other substances.
- Food Standards Australia New Zealand — cleaning and sanitation.
Kitchen stainless looking tired?
Tell us the surfaces and what is on them — grease, scale, fingerprints or heat marks — and we will match the cleaner and the polish to the finish. Browse cleaning chemicals or ask our team.